Angus part 2: The Battlefield Board

As promised Angus tore himself away from the snow at Glenshee to drop off his dry slope bashing board for a bit of base restoration. I’ve never actually had a session at Garthdee but it seems to involve a lot of attacking each others’ boards with hand held grinders:

 

 

 

 

The board was also fairly concave so it took a fair base of base planing to get it flat. This takes off some of the more superficial gouges…

…but still leaves the big ones to deal with. Experience has shown that it takes two or even three passes of P-texing & scraping to get a really mashed base clean and there really isn’t any way to short cut the fill & scrape process.

 

Here is the board smothered in clear & colourless P-tex the first time:

And the second pass, which included all the metal-grip down along the rather gappy edges:

However eventually it is ready for structuring with the trusty SkiVisions tools, tidying up the edges (which is easy as they were last done a few weeks ago by Angus himself) then some Zoom Universal wax to keep it looking nice and shiny until the next robot wars session at the dry slope.

 

Tom’s Blizzards

Tom dropped off his Blizzards for a service. Apparently he picked them up second hand in Norway. It certainly appears from this small sample that our Viking friends know how to look after their kit – the edges had been tuned previously but whoever did it retained the Blizzard standard base 1 degree/side 3 degrees, and the bases were as perfectly flat as any ski I’ve seen.

Sadly Tom’s many talents don’t stretch to towelling off his edges after a week in the Alps so our first challenge was getting the rust out of the way so we could spend some time filing the steel. You can just about see the worst rust patches on the “before” photo – about level with the ear defenders – but you can get a real feel from the photo of the file below, pictured after a single swipe on the base edge:

Anyway bright metal wasn’t too far away and the edges were soon back to their best. Two coats of wax, some scraping and brushing and they are ready to rock.

Brian’s lesson

Brian was interested in dabbling in the dark arts of ski tuning, so once he had signed the ski tech secrets act (cunningly disguised as the ManCave workshop disclaimer) we got to work on his Völkls. After base cleaning and the flatness check it was straight onto the base bevels. Like a lot of clients Brian had a long story explaining why he couldn’t dry off his gear after his last run – naturally it’s never the fault of the owner but no amount of self-justification alters the fact that you will lose a bit of steel from your precious planks if you let the rust worms nibble your edges.

Here Brian is sorting his base edges with one of the Moonflex diamond files. He has looked after his kit (rust notwithstanding) and it didn’t take much to get the edges cleaned up. As always I encourage clients to sharpen up to the tips and make sure they take a 200 grit diamond stone to the mountains so they can detune the tips if the skis are too grabby. It’s always easier to take an edge off on the slope rather then try to make an edge.

Side edges are 2 degrees, or 88 degrees if you are an inverse sort of person, and again we had to scrape off more steel than we wanted to get to bright metal. It’s a real shame to have to pick the hedgehogs of swarf out of the panzar file just because of a bit of water left on the edges a bit too long.

We soon got Brian busy with the waxing iron. This is the bit most people enjoy as they chase the melting edge of the wax up the base, especially the low temperature, runny base renew wax I like to use under the top wax.

Brian was pretty privileged as I cracked open a brand new wax scraper so the wax pretty much scraped itself. Doesn’t matter how carefully you sharpen your old perspex scraper it just never gets as sharp as a brand new one. At this point I want to point out that Brian arrived at the Man Cave with his fingers plastered up and that wasn’t the result of a new scraper incident.

Brian’s off to Chamonix in April so we agreed beforehand to apply the yellow Alphamix wax for soft spring snow. Sadly there was far too much blethering during the tutorial and we ended up using Zoom Universal instead, due to an autopilot error. No matter as it is supposed to be good to zero Celsius too, but really, pay attention John.

Of course people think they’re on the home straight when they’re ironing in the top wax but the most physical part of the whole service is coming – the brush up to a high shine. Usually I try to get sharp photos for the blog but this blurry job captures the effort & speed required.

Once Brian had headed home the other skis got a once-over. They were both Ogiers and definitely piste-bashers with narrow mid sections. They both had a bit of base gouging to sort and one set had a noticeably convex base. As always these base flatness photos are a drag to take and they don’t really show what you can see as you slowly drag the true bar down the base so once again you’ll have to trust me and use the eye of faith:

Once the gouges were filled & scraped the SkiVisions tools were pressed into service to bring down the central hump and to impart some new structure to the repaired base.

A couple of the edges had seen some life as the ragged edge here shows. Ignore the glossy black strip, that’s just a bit of lubricating water from filing the base edges. If these were back country skis I would be relaxed about the edge nicks as you don’t use edges when surfing bottomless powder, but of course these planks are intended to grip like limpets to the crunchiest corduroy or bluest ice on a knackered piste so really the dings have to be filed out to make a smooth edge. Cue yet more fur balls of filings all over the floor.

Finally all the gear is polished up – using the right wax this time – and ready for their class photo:

New skis – do they need a service?

Richard dropped off his brand new, never been skied Head Icon TTs for a wax. There has been a lot of hot air exhaled online on the question of whether brand new skis are as good as they can be or do they benefit from a going over from a decent tech before use. The arguments boil down to:

The “Don’t touch ’em” side:

  • Surely the manufacturer uses the best possible wax prior to shipping?
  • Surely the manufacturer uses the best possible grinders for base & edge angles?
  • Surely the manufacturer’s tight QA/QC wouldn’t allow convex or concave bases out of the factory gate?

The “Give them a once over” side:

  • They just plonk whatever spray on wax will stop the edges from rusting in transit.
  • They run the skis through the edging equipment as fast as possible and only change the stones/belts/grinders when they break.
  • The skis are still cooling down as they leave the factory and you should anticipate a bit of warping in transit.

Now I have never had the pleasure of visiting a ski factory so I can’t comment directly, although I have seen some interesting QA/QC diversions come out of Chinese factories on other products – and let’s face it, the majority of skis in the shop today are made in China.

So I’m going to record a few photos and let you make your mind up about the big debate, for these skis at least.

Flatness – not bad, not as good as Emmett’s Heads a few months ago, slight concavity but not significant enough to be worth photographing.

Edges:

Base edges showing unevenness where the grinder has bounced along, most noticeable on the inside edge where the light reflects.

 

 

 

 

This side edge shows where the grinder has gone from one angle to another, probably relating to the side cut of the ski passing a certain angle, or possibly just from the ski bouncing as they throw it through the machine as fast as possible.

This is something similar but over a longer distance- you can see the edge reflecting the light getting thinner and thinner from the top of the picture to the bottom.

 

 

 

 

This photo shows a small ding on the edge – nothing serious but very hard to avoid this sort of thing in a container full of skis making their way from the far east to the UK. You can also see that they have ground the plastic above the edge with the grinder rather than planing it out of the way. Fair enough, why waste the time planing the plastic, but it does mean that their grinder wheel will fill up with plastic and won’t make a clean cut after a while.

My brief from Richard was to clean the bases and get base then top wax onto the skis so I didn’t touch the edges. He’s planning to come back for  a lesson in March so he can sort them out himself after that.

Nothing wrong with the bases, look at that lovely stone-ground linear discontinuous structure. No easy way to get that without the stone-grind machine, although cross-country skiers have little steel rollers that they can use to impress different structures on their narrow planks.

Waxing is easy on these fairly narrow skis – here
they are after the base wax has been scraped and brass brushed to force it all into the structure grooves. Even at this stage it’s looking a bit shiny (right).

Finally the second coat of Zoom Universal has had its hour soaking in and scrapes and brushes to a high shine (left).

So you’ve seen the photos and I’ll leave you to come to your own conclusions on whether the factory finish meets your own standards.

 

Alex’s Custom

The tidal wave of Burton boards continues with Alex’s snazzy Custom:

He was quoted a one week turnaround at one of the other providers in Aberdeen but is leaving on Friday so he took advantage of the fast ManCave turnaround to get his gear sorted in good time – 18 hours from drop off to ready for pick up in this case. We can do it faster if you need it – call to see what we can do for you.

The tops looked fine at first…

…then you spot the split:

Holy smoke! Not much we can do here as the tip flexes so much no amount of glue will help. However it’s Alex’s choice if he wants to use it like this and we’re here to sort the base.

Once the many, many gouges are filled:

They need to be structured:

As always the clear & colourless P-tex means you can still see the gouges even though they have been filled. However I’m waiting for some coloured P-tex strips to come so maybe some coloured base repairs will look a bit better. Or, more likely, will have a slightly mismatching colour repair. Anyway the edges looked liked they have never been serviced, still showing a light crisscrossing grain from mechanical edging. The edges, like the rest of the board, have lived life to the full (and beyond) and show some signs, like the missing curve of steel below:

Bases and sides are both 1 degree and both need plenty of work to recover a good edge but once there sorted they are very nice. As always I like to treat a freshly structured base to some purple Zoom base renew wax first and the base soaked it up like a first pint on a Friday night. It’s a big board and scraping and brushing takes a while but finally the top wax is shined up and the base (let’s not dwell on the split top) looks like new:

Angus’s Lesson

Yet another Burton board wandered into the cave today, with 11 year old Angus hiding somewhere behind it. He sees the benefit in taking control of his own destiny and learning how to edge & wax his kit.

He’s been keeping it looked after and he learned how the Sharpie can be used to quickly find the current angles. The edges were bang on 1 degree base & side which makes things easy for us. He’s a dry
slope dude and his edges don’t suffer from stone bites but the base! Lord above. However it was an edge & wax lesson so we politely avoided the base issues, this time anyway.

Side edges were a breeze but needed a tiny bit of plastic to be planed off and the toe edge was noticeably less sharp than the heel edge so it took a bit more effort and elbow grease to get just right. Angus is still at school so hasn’t completely lost the ability to listen once and do what he’s told straight away, which is refreshing. He picked up the difference between the right & wrong noise & feel for the diamond files very quickly which was gratifying.

Finally we couldn’t ignore the P-tex battlefield that is Angus’s base any longer. Here’s a photo of Angus getting busy with the iron that will go down a storm with all the girls at school. The base has the usual dried out white lines that we associate with excessive dry slope bashing and it was a bit reluctant to soak up the wax to begin with but we soon beat it into submission. When the board comes back to the cave the base will be flattened, filled, structured and waxed which should reset it to like new and will help new wax adhere better.

Following some scraping and brushing, which pretty much proved that some jobs are simply easier for bigger stronger people, the board came up pretty well and is ready to start bothering the nylon at Garthdee again.

 

A brace of Burtons

Friday saw a set of Rossignols and a pair of Burton boards dropped off.

Burton A is a 2006/7 Uninc 154 which has a set of graphics which may not be to everyone’s taste – sort of a cross between Judge Dredd and Guernica:

Burton B is a 2012-ish custom restricted which has a rather inoffensive cocktail theme:

And – wait for it – scratch and sniff citrus patches on the base:

Good to see that the Burton techie team hadn’t been wasting their time between 2006 & 2012. Interestingly Burton A had quite a few nicks and scratches on the base but edges in great condition whereas Burton B was the other way round.

Burton A:

Burton B:

Filling the base nicks was easy enough, apart from the fact that the scratches kept going from black to coloured P-tex and back again – leading to the odd bit of colour creep – the black wisp coming from the head of the brandy-drinking, cigar-smoking pig shouldn’t really be there:

Once the Burton A base was sorted – well not 100% sorted as it had a bit of a concave thing going on that was improved but not eliminated – you only have so much P-tex on a base after all:

yes this is before and the other one is after – it’s about 0.5 mm better, honest…

So once the gouges were sorted edging & waxing were a doddle.

Burton B, on the other hand, needed a lot of edging work. One thing the Burton Tech Team had achieved in six years, apart from the technical triumph of the scratch’n’sniff patches, was the introduction of the Frostbite edge. Great name, and supposed to address the reduced edge contact you get with a board with pronounced camber. So what is frostbite in real life? It turns out to be a tiny bit more metal under the binding area, barely discernible with the naked eye. Anyway both the edges had unfortunate 45 degree flats on them:

The light really shouldn’t be reflecting from the edge like that and it takes a surprising amount of edge filing to get rid of it. I consider myself a conservative tech – you only get so much edge to play with over the life of your gear – so I hate having to file away tonnes of good metal to recover an edge. However better to have the edge there when you hit that icy patch…

It was nice to get back to the Rossis after the boards and they too had lovely bases but slightly knackered edges. I’ll leave you to make up your own minds about the graphics…

Nick’s family skis

Nick dropped off three sets of skis for edge & wax prior to heading to the hills for a holiday. What seemed like a simple job got a bit more complicated.

First a quick shampoo to clean off any remaining wax and crud:

Then base flatness check, shave the tops of any gouges, scratch them up to help the P-tex stick and then they’re ready for a scrape & structure:

Once the bases are sorted the base edges were done – still no drama – all three skis are one degree and the base edges were anyway in good shape.

However, it all went a bit Pete Tong when the side edges presented themselves. The Salomons & K2s should be 2 degrees and the Atomics 3 degrees. Instead all three sets were somewhere between one and two degrees, and they all exhibited a bizarre wave down their length – think of thumb prints on a pie crust except along a steel edge:

I drew some red lines on the photo to try to highlight them but you might just have to trust me. The edges have the tell-tale longitudinal, continuous striations left from tuning so they didn’t leave the factory like that – someone has done it to them. I can only imagine someone has used a hand-held grinder or something. The file guides just don’t let you make the wavy thing.

Anyway the most appropriate course of action, following a few seconds of incredulous head-shaking, was to reset the edge angles to what they were when they left the factory. It’s a shame as whoever reduced the edge angles must have removed quite a bit of steel to do it and now here I am removing yet more steel to put them right.

So once the edges are sorted and the huge fuzz of swarf has been swept up it’s a relatively simple case of wax, scrape & brush to a high shine. Nick is already looking for a lesson when he returns and if you have a lot of skis to look after it certainly makes financial sense to do it yourself.

Rossi core shot repair

As well as dropping off his K2s Colin handed over his wife’s beautiful new Rossignol Savory7 skis for attention. I’m a fan of understated tops that aren’t drowning in busy design and definitely a fan of black bases both aesthetically and to work on. The tips and tails of these skis have a hex mesh construction to save weight and this is covered with translucent blue film. You don’t really notice it until the sun shines through the tip like a techie stained glass window. Lovely job by the Rossi stylists.

However they are meant for skiing not hanging on the wall so the Chamonix trip had taken their toll with its less than perfect snow cover.

Bases were a bit scored and the base edges
were showing a lot of scratching. Reached the end of ski no. 1 inspection without too many concerns, but ski no. 2 had a nasty little surprise in store. Something had managed to rip the base right down to the fibreglass core.

There’s no alternative in these cases to cutting out the damage to leave a clean wound with undercut edges – meaning the edges of the hole are cut wider towards the fibreglass core to help the repair material stay in. What you do next depends on who you listen to – some people glue in cotton or wood to give the P-tex something to grip; Toko used to do repair powder that was supposed to be ironed in. I am firmly in the “clean it and coat the bottom in metal-grip” camp as the metal-grip will happily grip the glass and make a good substrate for the P-tex. I wasn’t able to take a compelling photo of the undercut edges so you’ll have to make do with what I did get. You can just about see on this photo that the Savory7 bases are only 1mm compared to others which are typically 1.7mm. This is to save weight and is part of the touring ski equation – light, strong cheap – pick any two.

Once the P-tex is melted in it looks like any other repair splodge and just needs to be scraped & structured:

Once the edges are honed and the bases get their two coats of wax the repair is just about visible but certainly not noticeable. Lovely skis returned to lovely condition and ready to find some snow.

Colin’s K2s play an encore

Having confidently said that Colin’s K2s would “only need a swipe and a wax to keep them going all season” he proved me wrong by heading to Chamonix and beating them half to death. It certainly looks like the thin snow at the start of the season has been keeping ski techs busy.

However despite appearances…

…there wasn’t actually too much wrong and they just needed the gouges scratched up, filled and a light restructure. Perhaps the worst bit was the number of near-edge grooves that needed Metal-grip rather than plain old P-tex. Although it’s great at gripping metal it doesn’t like wax so it tends to leave little matt streaks at the edges once the bases are polished up. Nothing to worry about and here are the K2s with some of the other backlogged planks: